Driving up the shore of the Dead Sea this morning, we saw some ibex and stopped to take photos. Ibex are a wild, desert-dwelling species of goat with massive curved horns. We left the Dead Sea behind and continued north through the Jordan River Valley toward Galilee. After traveling through the desert, it was amazing to arrive so quickly in a fertile region where banana trees, grapevines, and date palms line the highway. At Beit She'an we explored the large archeaological park. The most recent city there was toppled by an earthquake in 739 AD. At least eighteen other towns existed there and were destroyed by battles, fires, and other political and natural disasters.
Approaching Galilee, we stopped at Yardenit, a sprawling baptism complex on the Jordan River. It is almost certain that Jesus was baptized by John many miles to the south (at or near the site we visited two days ago. Nevertheless, Yardenit is a "must stop" location for religious pilgrims, and I felt obliged to at least check in there. I had forgotten what a big business it is. The store sells Scripture plaques and bottles of Jordan River water and t-shirts ("I was baptized in the Jordan River!") and such. Even wedding wine from Cana.
We continued outdoors to the terrace above the river. There are multiple sites (some wheelchair accessible) where groups can gather and enter the water for baptisms. A small group of visitors was pointing excitedly into the water, and as I peered down I saw a large muskrat emerge and climb up the steps used by visitors to access the water. Two enormous catfish (at least two feet long) swam nearby. Would you want to be immersed there?! If you do, please remember to dress carefully. All those being baptized are required to wear white robes purchased or rented from Yardenit. Someone apparently forgot to tell a group from Russia to wear some clothes under the robes. The thin fabric becomes almost transparent when wet, and the newly baptized had to make a quick, awkward dash back to the dressing room as they emerged from the water!
Leroy and I have been traveling for three weeks now. Twenty-four hours a day, every day, is a lot of time to spend together. A LOT. So far so good, though, and we still like each other. This evening while Leroy washed dishes, I took a walk down to the lakeshore (The Sea of Galilee isn't really a sea, by the way, but a fresh water lake) and I realized it's the first time I've spent time alone since leaving home. Maybe we'll figure out a way to do that more often. In the meantime, we're looking forward to visiting the sites associated with Jesus' ministry as well as touring the local wineries around the lake. We'll be here on the kibbutz for a few days before venturing west to the Mediterranean.