Driving from Paphos to Larnaca, we exited the highway to drive back into the mountains. We had just left the massive rock formations emerging from the sea that are the fabled site of Aphrodite's birth. The sea and mountains are close together on Cyprus. Our destination was the idyllic village of Pano Lefkara that spills over a hillside and is famed for its production of lace and silver. Before we even entered the villlage, we were already wary of eager townspeople rushing our car to urge us to buy their wares. Two more women waved wildly at our car, motioning for us to pull over. Leroy ignorned the women, not realizing cars are not allowed in town due to the narrow, winding streets. Apparently they were directing us toward a parking area. We immediately became trapped in a maze of steep cobblestone alleys. Our automobile startled pedestrians, and we barely squeezed it between the historic buildings. Finally we found a place to park the car, breathed a sigh of relief, and explored the picturesque town on foot.
Our arrival in Israel after 11 pm last night and our early flight to the Red Sea this morning meant less than four hours of sleep. By 9:00 am we were at the Egyptian border. At customs, an irate woman grilled me on our travel plans and was highly sarcastic when I mixed up some details: "Did you make your own arrangements or not?!" Her demeanor changed entirely when Leroy approached her window. BIG smile and "Mr. Lewis, you couldn't possibly be the age your passport says you are!" He of course loved that! The flirting finally ended and we were free to enter Egypt. Two young men named Mohammed in a Chevy whisked us throught the desert to the Sheik Moussa Bedouin Camp and Guest House in the Sinai Peninsula. We settled in to our simple room and joined a dozen or so travelers from around the world for tea in an open air room (an "arisha") lined with carpets and cushions. A professional rock climber and writer from the U.K. named Dave filled us in on procedures at the Bedouin camp. After a nap, Leroy and I walked the three miles or so to St. Catherine's Monastery. I was eager to get some photos of the remote stone complex that is said to be the oldest monastery in the world. I took lots of pictures of camels and rocks and everything else along the way, and just as we reached the monastery my camera's battery died. I did manage on the spot to figure out how to take photos with my iPad (a significant achievement for me) but will climb above the monastery to get better photos tomorrow morning. In the afternoon we will scale Mt. Sinai and reach the summit in time for sunset. Climbing down with flashlights should be a real adventure!
Now it's dark. We are back in the arisha with a fire burning and the call to prayer from the nearby mosque echoing through the mountains. Several cats are curled up on the cushions and by the fire. The Bedouin Camp is known for its amazing food, and we have ordered two traditional dishes to share by the fire. We are savoring each day of our sabbatical travels, and this has certainly been a great one!
I have some really great photos I would love to add to this blog post, but unfortunately here in this remote camp of a nomadic Bedouin tribe high in the mountains of the Sinai Peninsula, the wireles internet connection is a bit too slow to load my digital photos! I'll post them on another day.
