Thursday, April 4, 2013

An Eventful Day!

Three stories from our first full day in Cyprus:

1.  On our way to Kykkos Monastery, an ancient Eastern Orthodox compound in the mountains, we
stopped at a winery to eat our lunch.  We had packed sandwiches and fruit (Cypus is known for its oranges and bananas) and hoped to purchase two glasses of local wine and enjoy the amazing view from the winery's terrace.  The place was deserted, though we learned that a bus of tourists was expected at any moment.  The owner and wine-maker greeted us and invited us to sit on the terrace with him.  Soon two large glasses of red wine arrived at our table, along with a plate of goat cheese made at his sister's farm down the road.  He wanted to hear about our travels, and we asked him about his family and vineyards.  Soon another plate was put in front of us, this one loaded with rice-stuffed grape leaves and homemade bread.  The wine and the food was all mouth-watering delicious.  Soon the tour bus arrived, and our host had to leave us.  When we pulled out our credit card to pay, it was politely refused and we were wished a good visit on Cyprus!



Who would expect something like this on a remote mountaintop?
2.  After viewing the impressive monastery at Kykkos, with its amazing collection of icons and religious artifacts (e.g. hands and skulls of the saints, encased in gold) we took time for prayerful reflection and enjoyed the flowering trees and mountain breezes.  Then we had to figure out how to get back to Paphos on the coast.  I'm

normally good with directions, but I have been completely stymied by the twisting, narrow roads in Cyprus.  Thankfully, Leroy is doing most of the driving.  He's only forgotten to drive on the left side of the road a few times.  Anyway, it took us an hour and a half to drive the final 33 km (approx. 19 mi.) to the monastery because of all the hairpin turns.  To return to Paphos, I chose the most direct route, which began with an 18 km jaunt to a place called St. Nicolas.  Leroy expressed doubt when I pointed to the road.  It didn't look like much.  Unfortunately it became 
Turning the rental car around.
even narrower and steeper as we traveled.  The crumbling pavement turned to dirt, and there were no guardrails protecting us from the steep drop-offs.  Finally we agreed to turn around, and I gladly got out of the car to direct Leroy while he made a treacherous three-point turn.  The trip back to Paphos took four hours.  Google said it should take one hour and thirty-eight minutes.  When we finally emerged from the mountains and forests, we found ourselves in lemon and orange groves and drove through scenic villages built of stone above the Mediterranean.  A beautiful drive!


3.  For dinner, we tried to find a pizza place that was recommended by prior residents in our apartment, but it was closed for the season (it's beautiful here, but tourists don't arrive until May.)  We had Indian food at a British-owned pub, instead.  Shortly after returning to our condo, I fell asleep reading.  At midnight, we were awakened by by the sound of shutters banging against the outside walls.  A sudden, violent storm had blown in from the sea.  The metal storm shutters had been torn from their clips and were flapping wildly in the wind.  Leroy bravely (stupidly? :) ran out to the terrace and grabbed the lounge cushions before they blew away.  He could barely stand up, with the force of the wind and rain.  As he grabbed a large, hinged section of shutters to try to secure them, thesky was illuminated with lightening and he was thrown across the terrace as the wind caught the shutters again.  At the same time, the round picnic table lifted off the porch and blew away.  Together, we managed to close all the shutters.  Leroy cut his leg, and I have a scrape and buise on my arm.  This morning we did a search and rescue for the table, but unfortunately it couldn't be salvaged.  Today is a beautiful day, following the storm; breezy and cool, but clear with blue, blue skies and sea.