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| Carmel Market, Tel Aviv |
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Monday, April 29, 2013
Farewell and Shalom to Israel
Today is our last full day in Israel. We fly from Tel Aviv to Istanbul tomorrow afternoon.
Yesterday, we finally walked into Jaffa's Old City. We can see the steeples and minarets of Jaffa from our apartement windows but hadn't gotten that far down the seaside Promenade until yesterday morning. Jaffa (also known as "Joppa") appears several times in the Old and New Testaments. It is the port that received the "Cedars of Lebanon" to build the first and second temples. When Jonah was trying to run away from God, he got on a boat in Joppa (and ended up you-know-where.) The Apostle Peter was napping on a Joppa rooftop when he had a vision of "unclean" animals being lowered on a blanket, which convinced him to share the Gospel with a Gentile.
We wandered around the ancient stone buildings and fortified wall of old Jaffa and then headed to Jaffa's famous flea market. Several streets in the center of the city are lined with hawkers of everything old. It is a fascinating mix of nice antiques and items that should be thrown away. Since we can't carry a carpet-covered ottomon or a rocking chair in our backpacks, we left empty-handed.
In the afternoon we explored in different directions for a few hours. Mostly I went to the beach while Leroy hung out at a coffee shop. It was the first time we've been apart for more than fifteen minutes in the last month - probably overdue!
Very close to our apartment, on the waterfront, is a horrific landmark. We pass it each time we walk the Promenade or go to the beach. It is the gutted remains of the "Dolphinarium". Originally an aquatic park, it contained a discotheque for teenagers when it was attacked by a Palestinian suicide bomber in June 2001. 21 teens, mostly new Russian immigrants ages 14-16, perished. Everyone condemned the attack, including Palestinian leader Yassar Arafat. Today the City of Tel Aviv is still trying to decide what to do with the site. In the meantime it stands next to a beach crowded with sunbathers as a very graphic reminder of how fragile peace is in this part if the world. We have been privileged to meet many wonderful people while in Israel, including Israelis, Palestinians, and others. Issues causing ongoing tension and occasional violence are complex. Each day we learn more. It's been a valuable experience to see things first-hand rather than through the lens of media. Ongoing prayers and action for justice and peace (shalom) are needed!
Folks back home are just waking up, but we are seven hours ahead. We have already been to the
beach and back (I made my first Mediterranean sand castle) and had fallafels for lunch in the Carmel Market. Our last day in Israel marks the completion of the first of three months overseas. It's been a fantastic journey so far, and there is much to anticipate as we travel to Turkey tomorrow.
Yesterday, we finally walked into Jaffa's Old City. We can see the steeples and minarets of Jaffa from our apartement windows but hadn't gotten that far down the seaside Promenade until yesterday morning. Jaffa (also known as "Joppa") appears several times in the Old and New Testaments. It is the port that received the "Cedars of Lebanon" to build the first and second temples. When Jonah was trying to run away from God, he got on a boat in Joppa (and ended up you-know-where.) The Apostle Peter was napping on a Joppa rooftop when he had a vision of "unclean" animals being lowered on a blanket, which convinced him to share the Gospel with a Gentile.
In the afternoon we explored in different directions for a few hours. Mostly I went to the beach while Leroy hung out at a coffee shop. It was the first time we've been apart for more than fifteen minutes in the last month - probably overdue!
Folks back home are just waking up, but we are seven hours ahead. We have already been to the
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Sunday in Tel Aviv
Immanuel is an eclectically ecumenical group of Christians from all over the world. One of the reasons we chose to attend is the church's historical connection to the German Evangelical Church ("EKHN" - our partner Church in Germany; SSBUCC will be hosting an intern from the EHKN soon for a year.) The church is currently affiliated with a Norwegian Lutheran missionary society. The building is tucked away on an alley in the historic German/American Colony in Jaffa, near the border of Tel Aviv. German immigrants started the church - just like our church at home! The building was constructed in 1899 but was remodeled more recently. The modern, colorful windows are made of chunks of brightly colored glass showing scenes from Scripture - very similar to those at SSBUCC.
Worship at Immanuel was not unlike our own church or that of many mainline Protestant Churches in the U.S. We followed a basic liturgy, but the "feel" of the service was quite informal. I was intrigued by the extent to which this very historic, traditional church in the Middle East has adopted practices that our American churches struggle with. Pews have been replaced with chairs, allowing flexiblitiy for arranging the worship space. All of the liturgy and words for hymns were electronically projected at the front of the church. One of the things I really liked was the intentional mix of traditional (Lutheran) hymns, gospel songs, and contemporary praise choruses. At the close, everyone moved toward the front of the sanctuary and stood in a circle to receive Communion. Each worshipper received a small silver chalice into which the pastor poured wine. The bread was matza, of course!Following worship, Leroy and I wandered back through the confusing streets to Tel Aviv. We returned to the Carmel Market where we bought some cheap t-shirts. We brought three changes of carefully-chosen clothes with us on the trip, and we're getting tired if wearing pretty much the same thing all the time. We've got room in our packs, so we expanded our wardrobe. It is still HOT here in Tel Aviv. In the afternoon, the temperature hit 99 degrees while we were at the beach!
Saturday, April 27, 2013
The White City
Tel Aviv is often referred to as "The White City" because of the Bauhaus architecture that dominates its urban center. Bauhaus is pretty much the same as what is referred to as 'International Style" elsewhere. Simple, boxy, all-white homes, stores, and apartment buildings were constructed everywhere in Tel Aiv starting in the 1930s. Tel Aviv itself was established in 1909, making it one of the newest large cities in the world. Jewish immigrants working in nearby Jaffa designed a city that would welcome Jews returning to Palestine from around the world. Today, the Bauhaus buildings are mostly in disrepair. They were hurriedly built for people who didn't have a lot of money. The original white exteriors are mostly a muddy gray due to years of discoloration by sand and dust. The entire stock of 5,000 Bauhaus structures have been declared historically significant, and many are being restored. We took a guided walking tour along leafy Rothschild Boulevard yesterday and saw many of the best example.
The temperatures in Tel Aviv yesterday were supposed to rise to the upper 80s F. Instead, the heat topped out at 97 degrees. It seemed like everyone headed to the beach, and we were among the throngs trying to find a small plot of sand by the sea. The water itself was chilly but refreshing. Leroy and I have now swum in "The Med," "The Red," and "The Dead." No doubt we will be back at the beach today and tomorrow if the heat wave continues as predicted. Last evening we took a long stroll on the Promenade by the sea. Since Tel Aviv faces west, the view of the sun setting was fantastic.
Arrival in Tel Aviv
After a great breakfast at the Fauzi Azar Inn, we drove west toward Tel Aviv. "Weekends" in Israel are Friday and Saturday, with Shabbat (the Sabbath) taking part of both days. We had to get our rental car dropped off by noon on Friday before it closed for the Sabbath. Since we had two archaelogical sites to visit on the way to Tel Aviv, we were pressed for time.
The first stop was at Megiddo. The tel there, like the one at Bet Shea'n, is comprised of twenty civilizations built upon the remains of another. Some Christians read the Book of Revelation to say that the final battle between forces of good and evil ("Armageddon") will be waged on the plain nearby. Everything looked pretty peaceful yesterday, with farmers irrigating and growing crops on the valley floor. The tel itself is an amazing archeaological site with cool tunnels to explore. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to do that. A recent discovery at Megiddo is a mosaic that is believed to be the earliest known piece of overtly Christian art. It is part of a church dug up when the nearby maximum security prison was being expanded. It's actually inside the prison. I asked a guard at the Megiddo visitor center if there was any way for tourists to view the mosaic. He responded, "You'd have to kill someone if you want to see it."
On the Mediterranean coast north of Tel Aviv is Ceasarea Maritima. Like most archaeological sites in Israel, it reveals cultures and structures spanning many centuries. Much of what can be seen today is from the Roman era. A theater and a hippodrome (sports arena) dominate the site. Caesarea Maritima became the center of Roman government for Palestine under Herod the Great's rule. An inscription was discovered there including the word "Pilate," the only known evidence of the existence of a man named Pontius Pilate. It is believed that the Apostle Paul was held captive in Ceasarea for three years before being sent to Rome for trial. Nearby is an impressive Roman aqueduct that supplied fresh water to the city that once existed there.
We made it to the car rental office by the skin of our teeth. A taxi dropped us off at our apartment address two blocks from the beach. All of downtown Tel Aviv fronts a wide, sandy beach running along the Mediterranean Sea. Our apartment for the next several days is tiny, but it has a decent sideways view of the Mediterranean and the old city of Jaffa. Temperatures this week should hit 90 degrees farenheit, and we feel fortunate to be near the sea.
We shopped for groceries at the Carmel Market (a sprawling open air marketplace) on arrival, and then strolled along the beach and through city streets. Our landlord for the week said that the Sabbath in Tel Aviv (unlike in strict Jerusalem) is "like Sunday in the U.S." In other words, plenty of restaurants and bars remain open on the Sabbath. Tel Aviv is known as the City That Never Sleeps. Unfortunately, we are the Men Who Can't Stay Awake. We were up early today, though, walking the Promenade leading to Jaffa.
The Lilly Endowment (funder of this sabbatical) expects grant recipients to schedule significant periods of time in the sabbatical for rest and relaxation. Our time in Tel Aviv is intended to be just that. We will undoubtedly get out and see some of the local sites, but we are slowing our pace for several days.
The first stop was at Megiddo. The tel there, like the one at Bet Shea'n, is comprised of twenty civilizations built upon the remains of another. Some Christians read the Book of Revelation to say that the final battle between forces of good and evil ("Armageddon") will be waged on the plain nearby. Everything looked pretty peaceful yesterday, with farmers irrigating and growing crops on the valley floor. The tel itself is an amazing archeaological site with cool tunnels to explore. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to do that. A recent discovery at Megiddo is a mosaic that is believed to be the earliest known piece of overtly Christian art. It is part of a church dug up when the nearby maximum security prison was being expanded. It's actually inside the prison. I asked a guard at the Megiddo visitor center if there was any way for tourists to view the mosaic. He responded, "You'd have to kill someone if you want to see it."
On the Mediterranean coast north of Tel Aviv is Ceasarea Maritima. Like most archaeological sites in Israel, it reveals cultures and structures spanning many centuries. Much of what can be seen today is from the Roman era. A theater and a hippodrome (sports arena) dominate the site. Caesarea Maritima became the center of Roman government for Palestine under Herod the Great's rule. An inscription was discovered there including the word "Pilate," the only known evidence of the existence of a man named Pontius Pilate. It is believed that the Apostle Paul was held captive in Ceasarea for three years before being sent to Rome for trial. Nearby is an impressive Roman aqueduct that supplied fresh water to the city that once existed there.
We made it to the car rental office by the skin of our teeth. A taxi dropped us off at our apartment address two blocks from the beach. All of downtown Tel Aviv fronts a wide, sandy beach running along the Mediterranean Sea. Our apartment for the next several days is tiny, but it has a decent sideways view of the Mediterranean and the old city of Jaffa. Temperatures this week should hit 90 degrees farenheit, and we feel fortunate to be near the sea. 
We shopped for groceries at the Carmel Market (a sprawling open air marketplace) on arrival, and then strolled along the beach and through city streets. Our landlord for the week said that the Sabbath in Tel Aviv (unlike in strict Jerusalem) is "like Sunday in the U.S." In other words, plenty of restaurants and bars remain open on the Sabbath. Tel Aviv is known as the City That Never Sleeps. Unfortunately, we are the Men Who Can't Stay Awake. We were up early today, though, walking the Promenade leading to Jaffa.The Lilly Endowment (funder of this sabbatical) expects grant recipients to schedule significant periods of time in the sabbatical for rest and relaxation. Our time in Tel Aviv is intended to be just that. We will undoubtedly get out and see some of the local sites, but we are slowing our pace for several days.
Friday, April 26, 2013
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Cana and Nazareth
Our first stop today after packing up and saying good-bye to the kibbutz was a little town at the foot of Mount Tabor. Mt. Tabor was the site of an Old Testament battle and some Christians believe it (not Mt. Hermon) is where Jesus was transfigured. It's also the location of the Tabor Winery. We stopped in for a tasting and to buy a bottle of Merlot in anticipation of our next stop.
Between Mt. Tabor and Nazareth is the city of Kafer Kana, beter known to many as Cana of Galilee. Jesus' first miracle (turning water into wine) is commemorated by two churches sitting side by side. The Catholics and Orthodox Churches have each built a shrine. We visited both, and the Orthodox church is far more beautiful. The icons and painted walls and ceilings are stunning. A white-bearded priest in black cassock and cap lit candles in the dark and mysterious sanctuary. The gardens outside were beautiful also. Lining the narrow alleys leading to the "wedding churches" are many souvenir shops, most of which offer "Cana Wedding Wine." We agreed to sample some available for $30 a bottle, and it was truly awful.
The last time I visited Cana, I took a photo of a sign outside one of the churches that said "No drinking wine on the premises!!" I thought that was ironic and terribly funny, even though I was a complete tee-totaler at the time. A lifetime of Methodism had impressed on me the evils of alcohol in pretty much any form or amount. In my early-40s, I began to see that abstaining from alcohol had become like an idol for me and a source of pride (the bad kind) and judgment of others. Anyway, I've loosened up since then and really enjoy learning about and sampling wines. One of Leroy's and my favorite activites is wine-touring, which we have been able to indulge in a bit in Israel (more to come in Greece and Italy, for sure.) We will open up the Merlot tonight in our very cool room in Nazareth (more on that later) and celebrate the miracle of water becoming wine!
Nazareth is the largest Palestinian city in Israel. In the center of town is a Catholic Church known as the Church of the Annunciation. It is designated as a basilica and is the largest Christian worship space in the Middle East. Despite the predominance of Muslim citizens, the city's focus and economy seem centered on the birth and childhood of Jesus. Mary gets a lot of attention here, and there is a huge sign suspended over the road in the middle of town that says (I'm not making this up): "Merry Xmas". The Church of the Annunciation itself is spectacular. It's a modern church with a massive dome. Under the main level of the church is a dark, lower space (a "grotto") that contains remnants of what has been identified since the 4th century as the home of Mary. Catholics assume the angel spoke to Mary about Jesus' birth while she was at home. Orthodox folks believe it happened while Mary was drawing water from a well (probably because the Catholics got the prime spot first), so they've built their church by a well.
We are staying in a fantastic hostel/hotel called the Fauzi Azar Inn. It's an old Arab palace from the 18th century located in the center of the Old City. We parked our car far away and walked through a maze of narrow pedestrian streets to reach the inn. We had to bend over to enter through a Hobbit door, which didn't make a great first impression. Once inside, though, we were surrounded by a breathtaking three-story-tall courtyard filled with a splashing fountain, gorgeous flowers, fluttering doves, and stone stairways leading in all directions. The building has only been partially restored after being abandoned for many years. Tall ceilings are hand-painted with rich, flaking detail. Arched stained-glass windows are beautiful though kind of rough around the edges. Our room has stone walls, a vaulted barrel-like stone ceiling, and the tiniest window imaginable. Needless to say, the WiFi network doesn't work in our room, so I'm in the palace's old parlor looking out over the top of Nazareth. A cat just ran across the roof next door, and the largest full moon I've ever seen is peering back at me.
Tomorrow we're up early and off to Tel Aviv for a few days of relaxing to complete a very full first month of sabbatical!
The last time I visited Cana, I took a photo of a sign outside one of the churches that said "No drinking wine on the premises!!" I thought that was ironic and terribly funny, even though I was a complete tee-totaler at the time. A lifetime of Methodism had impressed on me the evils of alcohol in pretty much any form or amount. In my early-40s, I began to see that abstaining from alcohol had become like an idol for me and a source of pride (the bad kind) and judgment of others. Anyway, I've loosened up since then and really enjoy learning about and sampling wines. One of Leroy's and my favorite activites is wine-touring, which we have been able to indulge in a bit in Israel (more to come in Greece and Italy, for sure.) We will open up the Merlot tonight in our very cool room in Nazareth (more on that later) and celebrate the miracle of water becoming wine!
Nazareth is the largest Palestinian city in Israel. In the center of town is a Catholic Church known as the Church of the Annunciation. It is designated as a basilica and is the largest Christian worship space in the Middle East. Despite the predominance of Muslim citizens, the city's focus and economy seem centered on the birth and childhood of Jesus. Mary gets a lot of attention here, and there is a huge sign suspended over the road in the middle of town that says (I'm not making this up): "Merry Xmas". The Church of the Annunciation itself is spectacular. It's a modern church with a massive dome. Under the main level of the church is a dark, lower space (a "grotto") that contains remnants of what has been identified since the 4th century as the home of Mary. Catholics assume the angel spoke to Mary about Jesus' birth while she was at home. Orthodox folks believe it happened while Mary was drawing water from a well (probably because the Catholics got the prime spot first), so they've built their church by a well.
We are staying in a fantastic hostel/hotel called the Fauzi Azar Inn. It's an old Arab palace from the 18th century located in the center of the Old City. We parked our car far away and walked through a maze of narrow pedestrian streets to reach the inn. We had to bend over to enter through a Hobbit door, which didn't make a great first impression. Once inside, though, we were surrounded by a breathtaking three-story-tall courtyard filled with a splashing fountain, gorgeous flowers, fluttering doves, and stone stairways leading in all directions. The building has only been partially restored after being abandoned for many years. Tall ceilings are hand-painted with rich, flaking detail. Arched stained-glass windows are beautiful though kind of rough around the edges. Our room has stone walls, a vaulted barrel-like stone ceiling, and the tiniest window imaginable. Needless to say, the WiFi network doesn't work in our room, so I'm in the palace's old parlor looking out over the top of Nazareth. A cat just ran across the roof next door, and the largest full moon I've ever seen is peering back at me. 
Tomorrow we're up early and off to Tel Aviv for a few days of relaxing to complete a very full first month of sabbatical!
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
More of Galilee
Galilee is a large region that pretty much covers the most northern section of Israel. What Christians call the Sea of Galilee is in the middle and is know as Lake Kinneret by locals. We've now explored Israel from it's most southern to most northern points, as well as from the east (Jordan River) to the west (Mediterranean Sea.) Today we ventured a bit to the west and found ourselves back on the Mediterranean. The city of Akko (also called Acre - it's hard to keep all the names straight when there are multiple titles for each site!) beckoned us. Before we left our apartment early this morning, though, we drove a short distance from the kibbutz to the Mount of the Beatitudes.
Without doubt, my favorite spot by the Sea of Galilee is the Mount of the Beatitudes. It commemorates Jesus' Sermon on the Mount, and specifically his list of affirmations known as the beatitudes ("Blessed are the poor... the meek... the peacemakers," etc.) The location above the lake is spectacular and the grounds are meticulously maintained and filled with flowering bushes and palms and other types of semi-tropical vegetation. The church itself is interesting but not particularly old or noteworthy. We arrived shortly after the site opened at 8 am and already the place was teeming with tourists. We found a quite spot up the hill from the church to read and reflect on portions of Matthew 5-7 (I've downloaded the NRSV version of the Bible on my iPad.)
We drove west from the church toward Akko. Akko is an ancient walled city that looks and feels like Old City Jerusalem but is more laid back with fewer tourists. It's not a particularly biblical site, so fewer tour buses end up there (2/3 of tourism in Israel is from Christian pilgrims.) We climbed the city wall that Napolean's army tried unsuccessfully to breach and looked down into the moat which is now a parking lot. The Turkish bazaar was full of locals buying fish and fruit and cell phones. The city was an important strategy center during the Crusades, and we wandered through a crumbling building constructed by the Knights Templar. In our careful budgeting for the sabbatical journey, we didn't think to include potty breaks. Every public restroom has an attendant who collects 2-3 sheckels (60-90 cents) per person per visit. In Akko they even issue an entry ticket!
Near Akko is the home of the founder of Baha'i. I didn't know much about Baha'i (a smallish international religious group) other than the fact that they maintain a beautiful garden open to the public in Haifa, Israel. Turns out there is also a garden in Akko, which we visited today. I know now that adherents to Baha'i affirm three things: The unity of God (only one God), the unity of religions (all religions contain truth), and the unity of humanity (there is one human family.) We were impressed by the beautiful gardens but were disappointed that we had to stay outside the fence and look in due to visiting Baha'i dignitaries.We managed to get back to our little house on the kibbutz by mid-afternoon and have enjoyed some relaxation since then. We took our beach towels down to the Sea of Galilee shore for an hour or so. Now I'm thinking of trying out the hammock on the porch. Leroy is recording our activities and expenditures for the day. Lots to keep track of! Tomorrow we travel to Jesus' home town of Nazareth.
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
The Sea of Galilee and Beyond
Within a couple miles (that would be 3+ kilometers here) from our temporary home on the kibbutz are several sites associated with Jesus' ministry. The closest is right here on the kibbutz. About 20 years ago, a small wooden boat was found in the mud on the bottom of the lake near the shore. It was carefully removed and immersed in a chemical bath. When I first saw the boat fourteen years ago, it was still soaking. Today it's in a state-of-the-art museum here on the kibbutz. We saw the boat and enjoyed the view of the kibbutz and the lake from the museum.
Down the road, we stopped in to the Church of the Multiplication - along with about twenty tour buses. Since the early days of Christianity, a particular rock in that spot has been identified as the place where Jesus multiplied the bread and fish. The rock emerges from the floor of the church, and the floor itself is made of mosaic tile and dates to the 400s. It was found underneath the dirt after being hidden for 1300 years. A new church was built in the 1980s to commemorate the site. It was fascinating to watch a tile artist make repairs to the floor.
Nearby is the Church of the Primacy of Peter. It marks the traditional site of the breakfast Jesus had on the beach with his disciples after the resurrection. After breakfast, Jesus took Peter aside and asked repeately if Peter loved him. After affirming three times that he did in fact love Jesus, Jesus asked him to "feed his sheep." On the beach are three enormous rocks shaped like hearts. Leroy's college chorus at Eastern Nazarene sang a song by Ken Medema titled "Peter, Do You Love Me?" and Leroy sang it on the beach and then throughout the day in the car until I had to ask him to stop. 
The most important site connected to Jesus in Galilee is Capernaum. The village that existed there was his home base while ministering in Galilee. It was also the home town of Peter and some of the other disciples. In the center of the excavated village are the remains of a 5th century octagonal church built on top of a room used for worship by early Christians and believed to be part of Peter's house. 
From the shore of Galilee, we drove north into the Golen Heights. Northern Israel really is a very beautiful place. It is probably nothing like what most people imagine when they think of Israel. Surrounding and to the north of Galilee are lush, green hills covered with trees and cows. We were heading to the highly-rated Golen Heights Winery where we enjoyed a tasting and purchased bottles of Chardonnay and Caberet Sauvignon. We tried to find some other wineries that we had read about, but quickly became disoriented without a good map or GPS.
Driving still further north, we passed remnants from the Six Day War of 1967. Concrete structures riddled with bullet holes stood on hilltops among cattle grazing peacefully. By now we were seriously lost and found ourselves driving by several military installations. Soon we were passing army trucks driven by 20 year-old male and female soldiers. Some of the trucks were stopped so soldiers could perch on the roofs and peer at nearby Lebanon and Syria (we were right at the borders) through binoculars while holding machine guns. This seemed to make Leroy nervous. We finally had to stop and ask some soldiers for directions.At "Banias," a beautiful park with natural springs and waterfalls at the base of Mount Hermon, we remembered Jesus's words to Simon Peter: "You are Peter" (the rock) "and upon this rock I will build my church." The location was known as Ceasarea Philippi back then. Mount Hermon is also believed by some to be the site of the transfiguration of Christ.
We have great plans for tomorrow, too. Hopefully we'll get back early enough to enjoy the beach at the kibbutz. The weather has warmed up nicely, and it should be in the 80s tomorrow and up to 90 by the time we reach Tel Aviv this weekend.
Monday, April 22, 2013
On to Galilee
We are now living in a commune. Technically, it's a "kibbutz," and it's one of many communal villages formed by Zionist socialists in the 1930s and 40s. The Ginosar Kibbitz is on the north-west shore of the Sea of Galilee, just down the road from the Mount of the Beatitudes and the traditional location of the multiplication of bread and fish. It is a gorgeous day in Galilee, and we're delighted to be here. A young couple has rented us their apartment while they are in India. We spent some time orienting ourselves to the kibbutz this afternoon. With lots of palm trees and stucco duplexes, it feels a little like a Florida retirement community. Except for all the kids running around and the smell from the cow farm next door. The apartment comes with two cats, and they're not happy we're making them stay outside (I'm allergic.)
Driving up the shore of the Dead Sea this morning, we saw some ibex and stopped to take photos. Ibex are a wild, desert-dwelling species of goat with massive curved horns. We left the Dead Sea behind and continued north through the Jordan River Valley toward Galilee. After traveling through the desert, it was amazing to arrive so quickly in a fertile region where banana trees, grapevines, and date palms line the highway. At Beit She'an we explored the large archeaological park. The most recent city there was toppled by an earthquake in 739 AD. At least eighteen other towns existed there and were destroyed by battles, fires, and other political and natural disasters.
Approaching Galilee, we stopped at Yardenit, a sprawling baptism complex on the Jordan River. It is almost certain that Jesus was baptized by John many miles to the south (at or near the site we visited two days ago. Nevertheless, Yardenit is a "must stop" location for religious pilgrims, and I felt obliged to at least check in there. I had forgotten what a big business it is. The store sells Scripture plaques and bottles of Jordan River water and t-shirts ("I was baptized in the Jordan River!") and such. Even wedding wine from Cana.
We continued outdoors to the terrace above the river. There are multiple sites (some wheelchair accessible) where groups can gather and enter the water for baptisms. A small group of visitors was pointing excitedly into the water, and as I peered down I saw a large muskrat emerge and climb up the steps used by visitors to access the water. Two enormous catfish (at least two feet long) swam nearby. Would you want to be immersed there?! If you do, please remember to dress carefully. All those being baptized are required to wear white robes purchased or rented from Yardenit. Someone apparently forgot to tell a group from Russia to wear some clothes under the robes. The thin fabric becomes almost transparent when wet, and the newly baptized had to make a quick, awkward dash back to the dressing room as they emerged from the water!
Leroy and I have been traveling for three weeks now. Twenty-four hours a day, every day, is a lot of time to spend together. A LOT. So far so good, though, and we still like each other. This evening while Leroy washed dishes, I took a walk down to the lakeshore (The Sea of Galilee isn't really a sea, by the way, but a fresh water lake) and I realized it's the first time I've spent time alone since leaving home. Maybe we'll figure out a way to do that more often. In the meantime, we're looking forward to visiting the sites associated with Jesus' ministry as well as touring the local wineries around the lake. We'll be here on the kibbutz for a few days before venturing west to the Mediterranean.
Driving up the shore of the Dead Sea this morning, we saw some ibex and stopped to take photos. Ibex are a wild, desert-dwelling species of goat with massive curved horns. We left the Dead Sea behind and continued north through the Jordan River Valley toward Galilee. After traveling through the desert, it was amazing to arrive so quickly in a fertile region where banana trees, grapevines, and date palms line the highway. At Beit She'an we explored the large archeaological park. The most recent city there was toppled by an earthquake in 739 AD. At least eighteen other towns existed there and were destroyed by battles, fires, and other political and natural disasters.
Approaching Galilee, we stopped at Yardenit, a sprawling baptism complex on the Jordan River. It is almost certain that Jesus was baptized by John many miles to the south (at or near the site we visited two days ago. Nevertheless, Yardenit is a "must stop" location for religious pilgrims, and I felt obliged to at least check in there. I had forgotten what a big business it is. The store sells Scripture plaques and bottles of Jordan River water and t-shirts ("I was baptized in the Jordan River!") and such. Even wedding wine from Cana.
We continued outdoors to the terrace above the river. There are multiple sites (some wheelchair accessible) where groups can gather and enter the water for baptisms. A small group of visitors was pointing excitedly into the water, and as I peered down I saw a large muskrat emerge and climb up the steps used by visitors to access the water. Two enormous catfish (at least two feet long) swam nearby. Would you want to be immersed there?! If you do, please remember to dress carefully. All those being baptized are required to wear white robes purchased or rented from Yardenit. Someone apparently forgot to tell a group from Russia to wear some clothes under the robes. The thin fabric becomes almost transparent when wet, and the newly baptized had to make a quick, awkward dash back to the dressing room as they emerged from the water!
Leroy and I have been traveling for three weeks now. Twenty-four hours a day, every day, is a lot of time to spend together. A LOT. So far so good, though, and we still like each other. This evening while Leroy washed dishes, I took a walk down to the lakeshore (The Sea of Galilee isn't really a sea, by the way, but a fresh water lake) and I realized it's the first time I've spent time alone since leaving home. Maybe we'll figure out a way to do that more often. In the meantime, we're looking forward to visiting the sites associated with Jesus' ministry as well as touring the local wineries around the lake. We'll be here on the kibbutz for a few days before venturing west to the Mediterranean.
Pic of the Day
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| A street in Bet-She'an, with "tel" containing 18 layers of ancient cities in background. |
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Climbing to Masada and Floating in the Dead Sea!
We've gotten to know the town of Arad pretty well in our two days here. It's a city of about 23,000 that was the first planned community built in the newly-occupied Judean Desert around 1960. It's an oasis of sorts, with lots of palm trees and a city center that reminds me of the urban renewal projects of the 1970s in Western New York (lots of boxy and utilitarian concrete structures.) A town square allows pedestrians to meet friends and wander from store to store. We've done plenty of that as we've looked for coffee shops and places to eat lunch and dinner. The population is an interesting ethnic/religious mix of Orthodox and non-orthodox European and Russian Jews, Palestinians, and African immigrants. The town is perched high above the Dead Sea, and the climate is considerably cooler up here.
The last few days have been downright cold for April in Israel. The locals are wearing heavy winter coats. We're happy we at least have fleece sweatshirts to wear. We woke up to a cold rain this morning, which concerened us since our first planned activity was climbing to Masada. Fourteen years ago I visited Masada for the first time, and it was a very cold day with a driving rain. The total annual rainfall at the Dead Sea is about one inch per year, so I couldn't believe I could be that unlucky twice! As it turned out, the sky cleared up and the temperatures rose to an ideal level for hiking. We took a winding road through the desert to the back entrance of Masada. The story of Masada is fascinating and quite sad. After the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD, almost 1,000 Jewish zealots barricaded themselves on a mountain top at the former palace and fortress of Herod the Great. For a year or so, they fended off 8,000 Roman soldiers while a massive earthen ramp was built from the valley below to the fortress. The night before the walls were breached, the Jewish families on the mountain committed suicide rather than be taken as Roman slaves. This morning, we climbed up the ramp that the Roman built and explored the Masada archaeological site.
Masada is near the edge of the Dead Sea, but there is no way to drive from the back of the mountain to the sea. We had to drive 15 miles back to Arad through the desert hills in order to take a different twisty road back to the sea. By early afteroon, we were at the Ein Gedi Spa. The Spa is an somewhat grungy but well-known mineral pool facility. Inside are several pools filled with Dead Sea water that smells strongly of sulfer. The water is heated to around one hundred degrees. Bathers immerse themselves for 15 minutes or so before showering the oily substance off their bodies. The real spa experience, though, is outdoors. A hay wagon-like vehicle transports folks down to the beach. Once upon a time, the sea was just outside the spa. In recent decades, the water level of the Dead Sea has dropped dramatically, and the beach is now over a half-mile away. Leroy and I immediately got into the water, enjoying the curious sensation of floating like a cork. The Dead Sea contains thirty-three percent salt, compared to only three percent in the Atlantic. We then wandered down the beach and, following the example of others, coated ourselves with greenish-gray mud from the shore. After it dried, we were back in the water to wash it off. The water itself, though, as the consistency of (sulfer-smelling) baby oil, so we rinsed off thorougly with fresh-water showers located on the beach.
The road leading from Arad to the sea is named "Sodom-Arad Road." We did a little internet research and discovered that the traditional location of Sodom of Sodom-and-Gomorrah fame is just down the road from the Ein Gedi Spa. So... we drove around and found Sodom Mountain and a rock formation known as "Lot's Wife." As the story goes, when the wicked cities of Sodom and Gomorrah went up in smoke after the unspeakable treatment of angelic guests, Abraham's nephew lot's wife turned back to catch a glimpse and (poof!) became a pillar of salt. Sodom mountain and "Lot's Wife" are almost entirely composed of salt. I actually licked the mountain to see if it is true -- it is!
Tomorrow we head north to the Sea of Galilee. It should be a great few days there. The weather is warming up, and we have lots of New Testament locations to visit while enjoying northern Palestine.
The last few days have been downright cold for April in Israel. The locals are wearing heavy winter coats. We're happy we at least have fleece sweatshirts to wear. We woke up to a cold rain this morning, which concerened us since our first planned activity was climbing to Masada. Fourteen years ago I visited Masada for the first time, and it was a very cold day with a driving rain. The total annual rainfall at the Dead Sea is about one inch per year, so I couldn't believe I could be that unlucky twice! As it turned out, the sky cleared up and the temperatures rose to an ideal level for hiking. We took a winding road through the desert to the back entrance of Masada. The story of Masada is fascinating and quite sad. After the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD, almost 1,000 Jewish zealots barricaded themselves on a mountain top at the former palace and fortress of Herod the Great. For a year or so, they fended off 8,000 Roman soldiers while a massive earthen ramp was built from the valley below to the fortress. The night before the walls were breached, the Jewish families on the mountain committed suicide rather than be taken as Roman slaves. This morning, we climbed up the ramp that the Roman built and explored the Masada archaeological site.
Masada is near the edge of the Dead Sea, but there is no way to drive from the back of the mountain to the sea. We had to drive 15 miles back to Arad through the desert hills in order to take a different twisty road back to the sea. By early afteroon, we were at the Ein Gedi Spa. The Spa is an somewhat grungy but well-known mineral pool facility. Inside are several pools filled with Dead Sea water that smells strongly of sulfer. The water is heated to around one hundred degrees. Bathers immerse themselves for 15 minutes or so before showering the oily substance off their bodies. The real spa experience, though, is outdoors. A hay wagon-like vehicle transports folks down to the beach. Once upon a time, the sea was just outside the spa. In recent decades, the water level of the Dead Sea has dropped dramatically, and the beach is now over a half-mile away. Leroy and I immediately got into the water, enjoying the curious sensation of floating like a cork. The Dead Sea contains thirty-three percent salt, compared to only three percent in the Atlantic. We then wandered down the beach and, following the example of others, coated ourselves with greenish-gray mud from the shore. After it dried, we were back in the water to wash it off. The water itself, though, as the consistency of (sulfer-smelling) baby oil, so we rinsed off thorougly with fresh-water showers located on the beach.
The road leading from Arad to the sea is named "Sodom-Arad Road." We did a little internet research and discovered that the traditional location of Sodom of Sodom-and-Gomorrah fame is just down the road from the Ein Gedi Spa. So... we drove around and found Sodom Mountain and a rock formation known as "Lot's Wife." As the story goes, when the wicked cities of Sodom and Gomorrah went up in smoke after the unspeakable treatment of angelic guests, Abraham's nephew lot's wife turned back to catch a glimpse and (poof!) became a pillar of salt. Sodom mountain and "Lot's Wife" are almost entirely composed of salt. I actually licked the mountain to see if it is true -- it is!Tomorrow we head north to the Sea of Galilee. It should be a great few days there. The weather is warming up, and we have lots of New Testament locations to visit while enjoying northern Palestine.
Saturday, April 20, 2013
From Jerusalem to the Dead Sea
This was a truly remarkable day. We packed up our belongings early and walked to the Old City by 8 am. As we entered the Jaffa Gate, a sudden rain shower sent us scurrying to the covered streets of the Christian Quarter. We had breakfast with Loren McGrail, a United Church of Christ missionary serving in East Jerusalem. Loren is employed by the YWCA, and her ministry is with Palestinian women. We spent almost two hours learning about her work and hearing her first-hand perspective on Israeli/Palestinian relations. Our brief time and our observations in Jerusalem and Bethlehem sparked lots of questions. We were grateful for the time spent with Loren and for the advocacy work she is doing.
On the road between Jerusalem and Jericho (the setting for Jesus' parable of The Good Samaritan), we detoured up a winding road through the Judean hills. Our destination was St. George's Eastern Orthodox Monastery, an ancient stone structure clinging to the side of a cliff. We walked a steep path to the bottom of a gorge and then up to the monastery. A large group of Ethiopian Christians was also visiting. A strong wind was blowing, and their colorful, flowing garments flapped in the breeze as they hiked. Inside the monastery, gold cases hold the bones and skulls of martyred monks from the sixth century, as well as the entire withered body of a monk dressed up and preserved in a glass box. Grotesque, but kind of awesome, too! While we were at the monastery, I prayed for the group from St. Stephens-Bethlehem UCC that visited the Abbey of the Genesee south of Rochester today.
We entered the West Bank and inadvertantly drove through a Palestinian Refugee Camp on the way to Jericho. The poverty evident there was staggering. In Jericho itself, we stopped by the sycamore tree said to be the one Zacchaeus climbed to see Jesus over the crowds of people taller than him. I climbed that tree twenty-six years ago, but now it's behind a fence and I just took a picture of it. A man nearby made fresh-squeezed orange juice for us and gave us a bunch of bananas in return for a donation to an orphanage. We wanted to take the aerial car up to the Mount of Temptation, but the wind and rain required at least 20 riders to stabilize the car. No one else seemed to be around, so we decided not to wait.
The highlight of the day was visiting the traditional site of Jesus' baptism in the Jordan River. When we arrived, no one else was there and we ate our pita sandwiches and fruit beside the narrow, muddy stream. Within minutes, several groups of visitors began to arrive and take their place along the river bank. Two were from African countries, and they gravitated to either end of the baptism area. One group playfully dipped their feet into the river. The other engaged in a formal worship service with chanting and the full immersion baptism of several members. In the middle, an Italian group donned baptismal robes and stood knee-deep as they prayed in unison and crossed themselves. Nearby but across the river in Jordan, twenty Korean Christians sang Gospel songs in English. It was pretty amazing, and we felt blessed to be there.
The Jordan River empties into the Dead Sea, just a few miles south of the baptism site. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth, almost 1,400 feet below sea level. In the late afternoon, it's a luminous blue with the mountains of Jordan providing a rose-colored backdrop. I had forgotten how stunning it is. We stopped to tour Qumran, an archeological site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discoved by Bedouin shepherds. From there, we followed the western shore of the Dead Sea to Ein Gede. The group that was baptized by immersion in the Jordan earlier had gotten there ahead of us and was now playing and floating in the notoriously buoyant sea.
Passing Masada (which we will visit tomorrow), we climbed up the steep incline of the Judean desert hills to the town of Arad. We had reserved a studio apartment several months ago, but we found out on arrival that it had been rented to someone else. The alternate, tiny room offered to us for our two nights in Arad wasn't what we needed. The manager made arrangements with a friend for us to rent an apartment from her instead. We were invited to join her and her husband for soup and some very strong homemade ouzo. They are Russian Jews, and they also invited a couple visiting from Russia. Despite language challenges, we enjoyed great converstation and much laughter with them before retiring to our own quarters for the night. Whew! A very full day!
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