Final Day in Athens

Yesterday was one of those "taking care of business" days.  No time, really, to sight-see, which was unfortunate since there's plenty more to see here in Athens.  After two months of traveling, though, we've realized that we can never see and do all that is possible in each country.  Yesterday was our last full day in Greece, bringing us to the end of May and the completion of the second third of our journey.  We needed the day mostly to get things in order for the next phase of our travels.

We did get to do a little last-minute shopping.  I purchased a small, hand-painted icon of Jesus in the gift shop of an Orthodox Church in our neighborhood.  And we were lured into an art gallery where we purchased two watercolor paintings as reminders of our visits to Athens and Santorini.  We've hoped to pick up a few piece of art along the way, and the low prices here in Greece made it a good place to do so.  We packed them up with a bunch of odds and ends we've  managed to accumulate in the past few weeks and shipped them back home in two containers from the post office.  Several times during the morning, Leroy drew my attention to the building of the Acropolis which can be seen above the city streets; it really is an amazing sight.

Mostly I spent the day online trying to rent a car for our next week in Italy.  I had gotten everthing set for a car earlier in the week, and then it all fell through yesterday morning.  Finding a car with an automatic transmission (so Leroy can drive it) at an affordable price is no small feat in Europe.  I found a bunch of Mercedes and Audis available for hire, but they didn't fit our Smart Car budget.  Finally I hit the jack pot, and hopefully (fingers crossed) a car will be waiting for us at the Naples Airport this afternoon.  I've learned not to assume much along the way, so we'll see what happens next!

I'm excited about visiting Italy.  I've never been there, and we are trying to get to the most scenic and historic parts of the country in the next three and a half weeks.  Turkey and Greece exceeded all of our expections in May.  It has been a remarkable month, and we are enormously grateful each day for the opportunity to experience this part of the world!

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Athens, Greece, from the Acropolis

The Acropolis

We lollygagged for half the morning yesterday, cooking breakfast and writing and making arrangements for a car in Italy.  We finally organized our day pack and headed by foot to the Acropolis.  When we saw the line of tourists weaving through rocks and trees waiting to get tickets, we changed our itinerary quickly.  We walked back down the hill to the Acropolis Museum and were glad to get inside without much of a wait.

The museum is brand new and is quite a spectacle in its own right.  It is built over excavations of ancient Athens.  Many of the museum floors are glass, allowing you to look down at the old streets and houses.  It took a while for me to get used to the odd sensation of walking on clear glass!  The several floors of the museum contain statues and other items that originated on the Acropolis and are being preserved in the weather and temperature-controlled indoors.  The top floor is the same size as the Parthenon and has metal pillars representing the tall, fluted columns that can be seen through the glass walls that look toward the Acropolis.  Piece of the "frieze" (carved artwork surrounding the Parthenon above the columns) are displayed.  Exact replicas have replaced them on the Parthenon itself.  It was fascinating to hear the history of the Acropolis, including the fact that the Parthenon had been converted into a Christian cathedral and then a mosque before it was mostly destroyed by a Venetian attack in the late 1600s.  

When we arrived again at the Acropolis, the wave of cruise boat tourists was mostly gone.  We purchased tickets and climbed the stone steps to enter the hilltop sanctuary of ancient Greek worship. The Parthenon was built as a temple to Athena.  I had my camera ready (it's pretty much always around my neck, ready for a good shot) and was disappointed that the entire western facade was covered with scaffolding and tall metal cranes.  We worked our way around the colossal structure, though, and thankfully the eastern end was scaffold-free.  It, along with the other beautiful temples on the Acropolis, is truly remarkable in its proportions and classic beauty.

In the late afternoon, we went to the "fish spa" that is owned by our host in Athens.  I have never seen a fish spa in the U.S., but I guess they must exist.  There are many in the Mediterranean region, especially in tourist areas and airports.  Our apartment rental came with a coupon for a free "fish pedicure."  We stuck our feet in a large fish tank for thirty minutes.  Little fish eagerly nibbled our feet to exfoliate them of dry skin.  The fish tanks are positioned in front of a large window so we were visible to persons walking down the pedestrian street.  A three-legged Persian cat paced back and forth inside the spa and was surprisingly uninterested in the fish.  All in all, the fish spa was a very odd experience, but since it was free I didn't want to miss it!

We ate last night at a cafe near our apartment and ordered the "Tandori Chicken Souvlaki."  It tasted the way it sounds - an suprising but delicious fusion of Indian and Greek flavors!  We wandered the many walking streets that were filled with energetic people (mostly quite young) even on a weeknight.  Street musicians were everywhere; each corner seemd to have someone singing or playing a saxophone or mandolin or nicolodian (a wild-haired man is playing a ukelele with a violin bow below our window as I write this the next morning.)  We were glad to see that gelato is less expensive here than on the islands, so we indulged in three-scoop cones and called it a day!

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The Parthenon, Athens, Greece

Athens!

It was a bit sad to leave the beautiful island of Mykonos (as well as our traveling companions Stephen and Jim who are returning soon to Canada.)  The plane left on schedule, though, and transported us to the Athens airport where we caught a bus into the center of the city.  A short walk down the Ermou pedestrian street brought us to the business location of our Athens host.  His assistant escorted us to the studio apartment we are renting for a few days.  It's a large, high-ceilinged room outfitted in Ikea furnishings and fun artwork.  The large windows provide a view of Ermou Street, three stories below.  We were delighted to have a washing machine to use, though Leroy was terrified he would drop the clean clothes as he pinned them on the drying rack suspended over an air shaft (no apparent way to retrieve them if they fall!)

After getting settled, we wandered down Ermou Street without a map in what we thought was the general direction of the Acropolis.  Turns out we were a bit disoriented, but that allowed us to see more of the city!  Eventually we got on track and saw the stone columns of the Acropolis looming above us.  It was too late in the afternoon to buy tickets, so we just walked around and gaped at the impressive monuments from a distance. 

Very close to the Acropolis is an outcropping of rock that provides a panoramic view of the city of Athens.  It's the location associated with the Apostle Paul's sermon on Mars Hill.  It is also known as the "Aeraopagus" where trials were held and people gathered to hear visitors (like Paul) sharing new ideas.  As we crested the hill, we heard the words of Acts 17 ("Men of Athens, I see that you are in every way very religious...")  A preacher with a British (Australian?) accent was delivering a sermon to a group of tourists likely on a "Footsteps of Paul" journey.  We sat and listened for a while while taking in the amazing view and snapping photos.

We explored the historic streets of the neighborhood known as the "Plaka" and found a long walking street lined with souvenir shops (considerably less expensive that those on the Greek Islands.)  As we approached a square dominiated by an Eastern Orthodox cathedral, we heard loud music and saw that a large crowd had gathered.  Greek flags were everywhere, and most of the people in the square were wearing black shirts with lettering that we could not read.  New groups carrying flags and marching from other directions joined the crowd.  It was obviously a protest of some kind.  With the economic crisis and attending political turmoil in Greece, protests are a common occurence.  It looked pretty peaceful to me, but Leroy was sure we'd get hurt if we stayed so he dragged me down the street while I took photos.

In the evening, we found a beautiful, sloping plaza beneath the Acropolis where artists sold paintings and jewelry.  Nearby we located Kuzina Restaurant and were able to secure a table on the roof with a stunning view of the Acropolis.  We enjoyed gourmet rooftop food at bargain basement prices due to the unfortunate economic situation in Greece.  As the night grew dark, the Acropolis and the nearby Temple of Theseus were lit up and provided a romantic backdrop for dinner.

There is much to see and do in Athens, and today we will return to the Acropolis and visit the Parthenon!

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12th century Byzantine Church of Kapnikarea, on our street in Athens, Greece

Delos

We are packing up to leave the island of Mykonos and travel to Athens.  We've actually been in Athens twice now on this trip due to air connections and a long, unexpected layover that allowed some sightseeing.  We've not yet been into the city proper, though, and are looking forward to seeing the Acropolis later today!

Yesterday morning we took a thirty minute boat ride from the Mykonos pier to the island of Delos.  Delos is the site of a huge archaeological park, and that's all.  No resident population any more, just the remnants of a city of thirty thousand.  Looming above the island is a mountain topped by a temple dedicated to Apollo.  The whole island is considered one of the most important places in Greek mythology; the twins Apollo and Artemis are said to have been born there.

We wandered up and down the trails on Delos and imagined the large, influential city that once existed there.  It's not surprising that the population eventually declined and wasn't replaced.  The dry climate cannot support farming, so all food had to be imported.  The few natural water sources on the island were diverted into cisterns, but it was a constant challenge to provide food and water for the residents of the island.  A museum contains statues found throughout the island and preserves one of the amazing mosaics from the home of a wealthy family.

We enjoyed adding Delos to our growing list of important archaeological sites surrounding the Mediterranean.  The Acropolis in Athens and Pompeii in Italy are next!

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Mykonos Town harbor

More Mykonos

Tomorrow we leave Mykonos and return to our usual schedule of sightseeing.  For now, we are enjoying the days of relaxation that we planned for the Greek Islands.  On our second full day here, we joined some new friends for a leisurely drive around the island.  We ended up at a stunning beach squeezed between rocky crags and cliffs.  As usual, I plunged in to the water immdediately while Leroy (and most of the others on the beach) clung to his towel and stayed warm in the sun.  I took a lot of photos on the coast and around the island that day; the sky seems bluer here than any place I've been, and the sea is spectacular with its countless shades of green and  blue.  

Yesterday we planned to visit the island of Delos and the ruins there, but the island was closed for the day (how do you close an island?!)  We soothed our disappointment by shopping for Mykonos t-shirts and visiting art galleries with pieces we could not being to think of buying ($25,000 for a painting that would look great over our sofa at home!)  I have been threatening to get a tattoo for quite some time, but Leroy thinks it's a very bad idea.  So... I got a "practice" tattoo yesterday.  The henna artist painted it on in less than ten minutes and it should last for about two weeks!  

Last evening we were invited to view the sunset from the porch of a cave house that is perfectly situated above the Mykonos Town harbor.  It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen and was an ideal ending to a very nice day.

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Fish market, Mykonos Town pier

Settling in to Mykonos

Mykonos is one of the most popular of the Greek islands.  It has a very dry climate and is mostly tree-less.  Mostly Mykonos is known for the energetic nightlife that begins when bars open at ten in the evening and continues until sunrise.  I cannot for the life of me understand how people can stay up that late!  Our hotel has poolside music and entertainment from seven until ten in the evening.   That works perfectly for us, and I assumed we were in the one spot on the island where people go to sleep at a reasonable hour.  What I found out is that hanging out poolside is what folks do before their evening starts!  That just made me feel old and tired!  But now I'm up and outdoors bright and early and have the whole place to myself.

Yesterday Leroy and I walked down the hill into Mykonos Town to explore the maze of narrow streets.  It's pretty much a walking town, much like the Old City in most places we've been on this trip.  The streets are so narrow (less than ten feet in some places) that when delivery vehicles squeeze through, it's necessary to find a place inside a store to get out of the way.  The streets are paved with stones that are painted gray and outlined in white.  All buildings are whitewashed and trimmed with bright blue, red, green, purple, etc.  The center of town is highly concentrated with souvenir shops, high-end designer stores, and restaurants that hang over the bay.  When cruise ships are in the harbor, the place is packed with tourists with floppy hats and big cameras (which pretty much describes us as well!)

There is no mention of Mykonos in the Bible, though it's easy to imagine the Apostle Paul passing by on one of his missionary journeys.  Mykonos is mostly connected to ancient Greek mythology.  It's the location of the battle between Zeus and the Titans.  From where I am sitting as I write, I can see the island of Delos which is the most important mythological, historical, and archeological site in Greece.  We will visit Delos while we are here in Mykonos.

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Mykonos Town

Arrival in Mykonos

Yesterday's wind continued with increasing force through the night.  Despite our position high above the sea, we could see this morning that whitecaps had developed and wondered about our noon ferry trip from Santorini to Mykonos.  A phone call to the travel agency confirmed it had been cancelled, which meant we had to find new accommodations on Santorini quick.  We reminded ourselves how important it is to be flexible!  By the time we figured out a place to stay for the next night, we discovered that the ferry ride was back on, just delayed forty-five minutes, so we arranged a hasty bus transfer to the port.  The waves looked enormous as we boarded the high speed catamaran.  The ride was rough at the start, with swells approaching nine feet, but soon calmed and became quite pleasant.

We arrived at Mykonos Island by five o'clock in the afternoon.  A hotel van greeted us at the port and drove us through the hills to our home for five days.  We are just above Mykonos Town and have a nice view of the sea and the village from our room.  After a quick dip in the pool, we headed down the hill with Jim and Stephen to meet friends of theirs who arrived on the island this afternoon from Kazakhstan.  Leroy and I had a quiet dinner together at a simple local eatery (we are avoiding the many high-priced options available on this popular vacation island!) and are looking forward to several days of sunshine and relaxation on Mykonos.  I'll write more tomorrow about the island!

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Windmills on Mykonos Island, Greece

Skaros Rock

Yesterday after our boat tour, we nearly baked from the intense, blinding sun reflecting off our whitewashed terrace.  Today the temperatures have plummeted.  I am wearing several layers of clothing while typing with one hand and trying to keep my iPad from blowing over the cliff into the sea with my other.  The wind is howling out here, but I can only pick up the WiFi connection outside the house due to the thick rock walls.

The wind started suddenly and loudly during the night.  We were determined to hike up Skaros Rock this morning, though, so Leroy and I ignored the advice of others and headed into the fierce gusts with... gusto.   The path to the imposing Skaros Rock starts from the ridge connecting Thira with Oia, not far from our home for this week.  We descended from a pocket of luxury condos and infiniti-edge pools into a vortex of red rocks and magnificent views.  Skaros Rock rises like a massive up-ended funnel from the Caldera.  Its top is a barren, solid rock butte.  We went down toward the sea... then up toward the rock... and found ourselves among the ruins of the original capital of Santorini, long since abandoned after an eighteenth century earthquake.

When we passed Skaros Rock by boat yesterday, I noticed a simple, white church on the far side.  It is the only evidence of civilization on the rock, and it's not visible from other parts of the island.  Leroy and I eventually found ourselves in a position to look down on the church and then carefully maneuver ourselves down and over to the broad church porch with dizzying views down to the water.  The doors were all locked, of course, but we peeked through the windows at the array of icons and liturgical items inside.  I couldn't resist ringing the bells and hoped the bells weren't an emergency signal that would cause the villagers inland to come running.  Despite the strong winds that blew almost all day here on Santarini, there was very little wind while we climbed from rock to rock, high above the sea.  It was a great day for a hike!

Speaking of hiking, I've hoped to hear the results of voting today by the Boy Scouts of America before I head to sleep.  Not sure if that's possible, though, with the seven hour time difference.  A decision by the fouteen hundred delegates in Dallas to no longer exclude youth on the basis of sexual orientation will be a welcome relief.  A decision to instead continue the current ban will further alienate and hurt vulnerable kids who are told they are "less than" because of an innate human characteristic.  I was a scout, though not a great one.  I was lousy at knots and didn't like the whole "atten hut!" and "at ease!" thing.  I made it through Cubs, Weblos, and a couple years of the Boy Scouts, though.  My brother was an Eagle Scout, though, and my dad was a scoutmaster, and my son was a cub.  I respect the Boy Scouts a lot and have been involved in various ways with troops sponsored by churches I have pastored and have taught religious emblem classes in the past (prior to coming out.)

It irks me to no end that the current policy as well as the proposed change prohibit me from any direct or official involvement with scouting.  Despite the ongoing ban of gay leaders, virtually all LGBT organizations support the proposed change (itself a compromise) that is focused on allowing gay youth into the Scouts.  That makes sense since scouting is really about kids, anyway.  I sincerely hope the proposal passes, and assume with time the Scouts will include both youth and adults regardless of orientation.

The obvious disconnect with the policy up for vote today is that outstanding young men with leadership abilities will be forced to leave the orgnization at age eighteen ("Congrats on attaining Eagle - now get out!")  That makes no sense, and it occurs to me that when something is that illogical, there is something deeply flawed with policy and the principles behind it.  The same situation exists in Christian churches when LGBT persons are told the are persons of "sacred worth" but are excluded from service because of a part of who they are.  Various colleagues in my former denomination, which forbids the ordination and service of LGBT clergy, continue to strongly support their church's policy but are personally glad a place exists (the United Church of Christ) that allows me to continue in ministry as a pastor.  The disconnect really boggles my mind.  Many have suggested that gay scouts should just join another organization that will admit them.  It's like saying "join a different church": a "separate but equal" arrangement that's intended to make uncomfortable people happy but is inherently unjust.

The American Family Association and similar organizations have been working overtime in the past several weeks spinning lies and trying to get people to believe that gay kids and adults are immoral sexual predators.  Fear is a strong motivator, and hopefully those voting in Dallas will resist such tactics and will do their research and act responsibly for the sake of boys who need positive organizations like the BSA.   I'm proud of my denomination, the United Church of Christ, for its clear and public calls for the BSA to do what is right and to include all boys in scouting.

Next Day Postscript:  Hooray for the BSA's important decision to affirm the worth and inclusion of all boys who wish to participate!

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Church on remote north side of Skaros Rock, Santorini

Islands of the Caldera

This was a perfect day for boating.  Our ship was a two-masted schooner without sails that delivered us from island to island as we explored Santorini's Caldera.  Our adventure started with a bus ride north to the cliff-top village of Oia (pronounced "Eee-uh.")  We were transported by mini-bus down the steep incline to the harbor.  Our boat, the Poseiden, soon arrived to take us and thirty other passengers across the bay to the island of Nea Kameni.  The sun shone bright and hot, and the blue sky was reflected in the blue, blue waters of the Caldera as we sunned ourselves on the deck.

Nea Kameni is at the center of the Caldera and is in fact the top of the volcano that once dominated the island of Santorini.  The whole mountain collapsed when the volcano blew thirty-six hundred years ago.  Today the island is a mass of chunky, black volcanic rocks.  We didn't realize the tour would involve so much hiking, so we wore flip flops as we awkwardly ascended the volcano to the summit.  Near the top is a spot where sulferous gases escape from whatever is still churning below the surface. The last eruption was over sixty years ago, but we didn't take chances as we skirted the noxious mist and returned to the boat!

Nearby is the small island of Palea Kameni.  We never actually docked there, but passengers were invited to swim from the boat to the hot springs that warm an inlet.  I took a flying leap off the side of the boat while Leroy volunteered to stay on board and take photos!  The water was about thirty feet deep and clear and cold.  I swam toward the shore with about fifty others from our ship and another tour boat.  We passed a small church and then the water suddenly became quite warm.  The water also turned reddish brown from the mud that lines the bottom of the inlet and was stirred up by swimmers.  I joined others in covering myself with mud and then washing it off on the swim back to the boat.

The final island, Thirasia, has a long, narrow beach of black rocks that is lined with small restaurants and souvenir shops.  We ate Giros and then walked to the far end of the beach.  A tiny, hand-crafted church ("St. Nicolas") stood there by the water.  I heard today that there are a thousand churches on the islands that comprise Santorini.  Pretty impressive, considering the population is less than fifteen thousand.  Most of the churches are what we would call "chapels" or "shrines" in America.  Little St. Nicolas by the water on Thirasia was attached to a boathouse and looks like it was a family's charming and creative arts and crafts project.  Leroy and I swam there and then walked back to our boat for the return trip to Oia.

This evening, like each evening here, we are sitting on the terrace by our very own volcanic rock, enjoying the quiet while looking at the lights from the cruise ships and other boats below us on the Caldera.  This is truly a place of remarkable peace and beauty.

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Leroy swimming in the Caldera, off Thirasia Island, Greece

Sunny Santorini

The Greek island of Santorini is what heaven is like.  Or if it's not, it should be.  We arrived by plane at the Santorini airport and were whisked away to our rented cave house at the top of a cliff looking over a panorama of indescribable beauty.  Santorini was originally a roundish island until it was reduced to an archipeligo around 1600 BC by one of the most powerful volcanic blasts in history.  A huge boulder that was once part of the volcano sits calmly on our terrace.  As the result of the explosion, the "Caldera" was formed.  It's a bay surrounded by islands, with one low, former volcano in the center.  Our cottage clings to the side of a cliff, among many other whitewashed, blue-trimmed cave houses that seem to spill over the edge toward the sea.  Leroy and I are staying in an even smaller, separate cottage comprised of one tiny room with a large window overlooking the Caldera.  The vew is breathtaking, and we feel incredibly fortunate to be here for four days.

A narrow path winds along the cliff, connecting the villages of Thir and Oia.  We are closer to Thira, and can get there easily by foot.  Last night we had dinner overlooking the sea in Thira and then wandered back uphill to our home as the sun was setting.    We will mostly be relaxing during our days on Santorini.  Stephen and Jim are off to a museum, but we've elected to stay at the house this morning, on the terrace. to read and write and draw.  Tomorrow we will likely take a boat tour of the Caldera that includes stops at two beaches.  

I checked the news this morning and was horrified by the loss of life in Oklahoma due to the most recent tornados.  What a terrible tragedy.  We are praying here for folks back home in the U.S. and expecially today for those affected by the tornados.  It was also distressing to read about yesterday's balloon crash in Cappadocia.  As we prepared to take off in a balloon there two weeks ago, a rider in our balloon commented that other countries do not allow hot air balloons to be near each other, let along touch.  Obviously, better safety measures need to be implemented in Turkey.  What a heartbreak, though, for those killled or injured and those who witnessed the accident.

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View of our tiny bedroom cottage (blue door) high above the Caldera (volcanno basin), Santorini Island, Greece

On to Lindos, Rhodes

Another amazing day in beautiful Rhodes, Greece!  We traveled south and west along the Aegean coast to the village of Lindos.  Lindos is one of the oldest settlements on the island of Rhodes and is steeped with history.  Rising above the town is the Acropolis with ruins from a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena.  Around 1300 AD, the Knights of St. John took over the hilltop and constructed an impressive fortress.  We parked at a distance and climbed to the Acropolis.  We took turns taking photos of each other on a lofty pedestal while striking poses worthy of the greek gods.

The Old Town of Lindos is another mish-mash of narrow cobblestone pedestrian streets lined with small shops. Each country we've visited has it's distinctive collection of souvenirs.  If we had room in our backpacks, we'd load up on little statues and ceramic reproductions of ancient pottery.  While wandering through the streets of Lindos we discovered two Orthodox Churches, both built in the fourteenth century.  I took lots of photos of The Church of the Panagia before seeing the sign that said "no photos!"  I also missed the sign that said "no shorts!" and an unhappy guard let me know about my transgression after it was too late.  I guess I'd better pay closer attention.

Below the Acropolis and the village of Lindos is The Bay of St. Paul.  It's a very small and almost perfectly-circular body of turqoise water with two small outlets into the Aegean Sea.  Two small beaches welcome sun-seekers to the bay, and perched on a rocky hillside is the Church of St. Paul.  Legend has it that Paul was shipwrecked off the coast of Lindos (that info is not in the Bible, but Paul did get shipwrecked a lot.)   Tradition says that he sought refuge in the bay and went on to establish the church of Rhodes.   The Book of Acts just records that he stopped on the island on the way back to Jerusalem from Rome on his third missionary journey.  I swam in the cool, clear waters of St. Paul Bay while Leroy walked back to Lindos and shopped for souvenirs. 

Back at our home in Afandou, we dipped in the pool and then packed up our belongings before dinner.  We are up early tomorrow for a 6:45 a.m. flight to the island of Santorini.

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The Church of Panagia, Lindos, Rhodes, Greece

Exploring Rhodes Town

We're enjoying a relaxed few days on the island of Rhodes.  This morning we drove up the coast to the ancient walled city of Rhodes Town.  The wall was built in 1309 and it - along with the entire Old City - is amazingly picturesque and in terrific condition after eight hundred years.  The city was founded long before the Crusaders took it over.  Its current appearance dates from that era, however.  It's easy to imagine knights on horseback charging through the arched, stone gates.  We explored the Palace of the Grand Masters, a 1939 reconstruction of a previously destroyed castle.  It contains numerous fifth century mosaics from a nearby island.  Signs demand Do not walk on the mosaics!" yet they cover most of the hallway surfaces.  We ended up taking great leaps over them to avoid breaking the rules.  

Rhodes Town is mostly a pedestrian city, with countless tourist shops lining the narrow streets.  We climbed a clock tower to get a good view from above and see the cruise ships that release thousands of eager tourists into the city each day.  Always watching our daily food budget, we split a small sausage roll for lunch so we could indulge in waffle cones topped with three scoops of gelatto!  After trudging through the streets and taking in the sights for a few hours, we crossed back over the moat and drove to a beautiful beach between Rhodes Town and our house in Afandou.

Stephen cooked dinner tonight, and we feasted on roasted chicken and local vegetables outdoors in our poolside garden surrounded by olive trees.  Tomorrow we venture west to sites associated with the Apostle Paul's visits to Rhodes.

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The "Street of the Knights," Rhodes, Greece

On to Rhodes!

Yesterday was a long day.  We left our hotel on Samos Island at 5:30 a.m. and arrived at our next temporary home just before 9 p.m.  Turns out it was the air traffic controllers striking just for the afternoon, right when our trip to Rhodes was planned.  We ended up with ten or so hours to kill on our extended layover in Athens.  Since we're spending three days in the heart of Athens in a couple weeks, Leroy and I decided to take a bus from the airport to the seaport where cruise ships and ferries deliver folks from the islands.  The bus first dropped us off at a bleak spot near several now-defunct and decaying venues from the 2004 Summer Olympics.  As we waited for a second bus to take us all the way to the port, a friendly older gentleman started talking to us in Greek  When we gave him our "we're sorry, we don't understand Greek" look, he asked us in English where we were from.  Turns out he's a resident of Hamilton Ontario, an hour from Buffalo, visiting family in Greece.  He helped us get on the right bus and gave us helpful sightseeing advice when we all got to the port.  We visited a fish market with octopi and other creatures, looked over the huge cruise ships, and caught the return bus to the airport.

We're in Rhodes now, one of the large Greek Islands in the Aegean Sea.  It's just off the coast of Turkey, like Samos, but there are no direct flights thus the layover in Athens.  We rented a car with Stephen and Jim and headed to Afandou on the south shore.  We are staying four nights in a small, modern house with its own swimming pool.  There is a view of the sea, which is just a short walk down a dirt lane from the house.  We spent the day being lazy and catching up on necessities: reading, laundry, swimming in the pool, shopping for groceris.  Leroy and I put on our bathing suits and strolled to the beach, but the weather turned cool and windy again so the beach was empty and we didn't go in the water.

The Apostle Paul visited Rhodes on at least two of his missionary journeys.  During his day, the harbor entrance at Rhodes Town was dominated by the Colossus: a nearly-one hundred foot tall statue of a Titan that was later toppled by an earthquake.  We're looking forward to visiting the Crusader-era Old Town of Rhodes tomorrow morning.

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Afandou Beach, Rhodes, Greece

Final Day on Samos

Transportation is dicey in the Greek Islands.  You just never know when ferry service will be canceled or when an airline strike will cut you off from the rest of the world.  When we got to Samos, we found out the scheduled start for the hydrofoil to Patmos (where John wrote the Book of Revelation) was delayed until June.  That was a disappointment, but we knew getting to Patmos wasn't a sure thing.  This afternoon we got word that our flight to Rhodes via Athens for tomorrow afternoon was cancelled due to a strike.  Now we're leaving our hotel at 5:30 a.m. and the 3 hour one-stop flight has stretched to 12 hours.  We've learned to roll with the punches, though, and will make the most of the ten hour layover in Athens.

Today we explored the north side of Samos Island.  The weather could not have been more ideal for walking beaches and scaling heights in the island's interior.  Not far from Vathi is an old fishing village named Kokkari.  It's been mostly taken over ​ the tourist industry, but it was almost completely silent today.  The tourist season hasn't started in earnest yet, and the economy in Greece has really taken a bite out of tourism.  We watched boats bobbing in the harbor and visited a stately Eastern Orthodox Church with stunning icons.  The town stretches for a mile or so along the beach and has amazing views of Samos's mountain range.

A bit further west, we parked the car and followed a dirt path down a steep incline to Tsamadou Beach.  There was no sand, but that didn't stop us from spreading our beach towels on the rocky shore.  After soaking up the sun for an hour or so, I got up my courage and plunged into the ultramarine sea.  It wasn't as cold as I expected!  Unfortunately, Leroy could not be coaxed away from his towel.  Our next island is a bit south, so maybe he'll find the water more to his liking there!

Our final stop before returning to Vathi was the mountaintop village of Manolates.  The sign by the main road said it was four kilometers to the south.  If the sign is correct, it was the longest 4K I've ever experienced.  A narrow lane with countless steep, hairpin turns led us through a dark forest to a spectacular vista above the Aegean Sea.  A charming hodgepodge of stuccoed, tiled cottages arranged around a whitewashed church comprises the village.  We wandered around for a while before descending to the sea while holding our breath again on the guardrail-less road.

Time to pack up and get some sleep before our early wake-up call!